"People were just smaller back then" ... ☝🏻🤓 Well, actually
The McDowell Garment Drafting Machine Measuring Book. (It's been a while, but I'm still here!)
Good afternoon, friends! I can’t believe it’s been so long since I’ve updated this newsletter. Life has been a bit hectic.
My husband and I bought an old house that needs a LOT of work done to it before we can move in, and we’re currently living in the garage apartment while all that happens.
Not only has my routine changed, but I have had to adjust the way I run my business. A lot of my things are still in boxes and will be for the foreseeable future. It’s been an adventure! And admittedly I have been attempting to juggle too much, so some things have been neglected.
But, I’m trying to pick this back up, because even when I don’t have space to set up studio lights and photograph antique clothing, I always have space to write.
So, with the mini life update out of the way, let’s talk about today’s topic.
One of my biggest historical fashion pet peeves is hearing people marvel at “how tiny people were back then!” or state in a matter of fact (or even wistful??) tone that our ancestors were “just so small.”
If you have said this before, I’m certainly not trying to shame you. It’s one of the biggest historical fashion myths that continues to be perpetuated by a ton of people.
(There are a lot of those myths floating around, and I have fallen victim to some of them myself, but that’s why I like to research as many primary sources as possible when educating myself. As LeVar Burton always said, “You don’t have to take my word for it!”)
I’m not going to go into all of the reasons why people are wrong when they make this statement. Frankly, it has been talked about quite a bit in the historical fashion community by people a lot more educated than me on the topic (Bernadette Banner, Nicole Rudolph, Abby Cox, and Kenna Libes come to mind). But survival bias accounts for a large part of this misconception.
However, as someone who has handled, purchased, and sold thousands of pieces of antique clothing at this point, I can tell you that people of all shapes and sizes did exist throughout history. And today I wanted to add an interesting piece of evidence to the pile.
The McDowell Garment Drafting Machine Measuring Book
Let me begin by saying I am not a seamster, tailor, costumer, etc. so I won’t pretend to fully understand how a garment drafting machine works, but I have read the measuring booklet as well as some history on the device, and will do my best to provide an overview.
From what I can tell, The McDowell Garment Drafting Machine was first patented in 1879. The system touted itself as “the greatest invention of the age” and was designed to simplify the process of pattern-making. By following their very detailed instructions (I struggled to understand many of them, I admit), and taking precise measurements, you could let the “machine” do the rest.
Of course, in reality it’s not that simple. And it’s not really a machine in the way most of us would imagine, but instead is a set of wooden or metal bars that would have to be manually adjusted, calibrated, and “set” according to the instructions. I’m being vague here because that’s about as far as my understanding goes!
But the interesting part (to me) is the measuring book! The one in my possession includes many sets of measurements for different people. I assume it was owned by a dressmaker since there are so many different measurements entered into the book.
The waist measurements range from 21 1/2” to 48” and there are several entries with a 30”+ waist measurement. It’s also interesting to see all of the other measurements, including bust and hip measurements, of course, but also neck measurements, back length and width, and arm length. Although left out on most of the pages, some include even more detailed arm and hand measurements as well.
It’s an interesting piece of history and I wanted to share it with you, so I’ve scanned the entire thing—100 pages including some instructions on how to take the measurements.
Download the PDF below. I hope you enjoy!
Sources for further education:
Kenna Libes: Extant Garments Waist Measurement Resource (25″/64cm+) (900+ garments!)
Bernadette Banner: How the Victorians Faked Tiny Waists (without fainting!)
Nicole Rudolph: The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"
Also check out Kenna Libes’s Instagram account Stout Style History